Last summer at this time, I scoured the United Kingdom and Germany for the best in breakfast, coffee, pastries, lunch, candies, dinner and drinking. As lead researcher for the World Search for Exceptional Pastries and Sweets, I was joined by espresso-curmudgeon Nicole Burisch, hence our joint imperative to source the best pairings of the two, enjoyed during many languid chain-smoking mornings.
Not one to be flummoxed for a snack in far-flung locales, the first few days were met with the disappointing realization: no matter how many times I lunch in a new city, I’ll never hit all the best snackeries.
BERLIN
Find one of the most astonishingly delicious in the courtyard by the Sammlung Hoffmann (Sophie-Gips Hote, Sophienstrasse 21, Berlin-Mitte) where beet salad, killer espresso-based drinks, almond pastries and delectable deli items can be enjoyed on the patio, or in quaint to-go containers for later in the day. Tender, perfectly cooked beets, herbs, walnuts and chunks of feta in the most incredible dressing was the highlight. Their take on sun dried tomato pasta salad was also miles beyond any ever I’ve tasted. Thankfully, there was no sign of starchy noodles soaking up their sauce till they reach a full bloat, or the irritating addition of celery, huge shears of parsley and rancid nuts that are a hallmark of most pre-prepared pasta salads. Hallelujah!
Not to be missed is a warm halloumistache pita, but you should probably ask a Berliner (or ex-pat Canadian living in Berlin) to usher you into the best spot. In the meantime: http://www.halloumi-cheese.eu/
GLASGOW
Multidisciplinary vegan/veggie resto, record shop, band venue, healthy grocery, craft shop and post art opening watering hole, Glasgow’s MONO (King’s Court down the block from Transmission Gallery) is another gem. Tipped onto it by local Artist-Run Centre staff, our hospitality in the rough-and-tumble Scottish city was unparalleled: we spent many booze-fulled evenings with local artists in the warm open space snacking on crisps, tasty asparagus and lentil salad, vegan lasagna and way above par blended vegetable soups. Wash down with copious amounts of house-brewed fruity iced tea and strong draught beer, both on tap!
LONDON
Only at the ICA did the head bartender dispense one of his runners to retrieve a fresh egg from the kitchen for my Whisky Sour. What followed was a slushy elixir of wonder: carefully strained egg-white, crushed ice, whisky, lemon and sugar. Fantastic. Thank goodness for snack-blogging, because after this knockout drink, I cannot for the life of me remember what we saw at the gallery that night. Gallery admission: about 10 bucks Canadian. Whisky Sour: a cool $16.
As Motorhead says, “the chase is better than the catch,” which I’ve interpreted to mean that perhaps the myth and mystery of exotic travel eating is satisfying enough to subsist on. At least for now, where the destinations on my list this summer will have me chasing tender sprouts in the backyard, rural Alberta strawberry farms and perhaps jetting to Victoria for a fresh chunk of sushi or two.
